Showing posts with label Ilan County. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ilan County. Show all posts
Friday, May 9, 2008
Day 17 walk
Day 17:Around the Henben / Aohua area. Friday July 27th, 5 hours
Henben is really close to Aohua. They are both in the same "ao", the middle of which is the border between Ilan and Hualien counties. It also had a fairly big stream running through it, which gave me some trouble. The stream was quite shallow in most places and quite spread out, into many small branches. But there always seemed to be one main channel that was just a bit intimidating, especially if you didn’t want to get cell-phone etc wet. I diddled along the beach for a while, until I got to the river area that would certainly be flooded during high water. Then, I laboriously explored it, looking for a reasonable way across. I wandered around in that riverbed for hours, getting hotter and hotter, until I came to some narrows where the stream came out of the mountains. It was steep and rocky, and the water below was fast and deep. There was no easy way across. I walked back towards the ocean, and came across an abandoned railway bridge that, judging from the trail and little ladder leading up to it, was the locals’ solution to the problem I had encountered. The rails had been ripped off so there was no threat of a train coming along. It took me across to the other side, and into Hualien County. I followed a barrier wall around the outside of a huge power plant and cement making plant that dominated the town like a castle in a small village. As I came around the corner on the other side of the river mouth, the beach resumed. There was an odd outflow from the plant, from which the water came out vertically from a massive pipe. It didn’t spurt up into the air very far, but it did gush up rather impressively. I followed that beach for a while but it soon dead-ended at a huge wall of wave protectors (massive concrete jacks) that were at the mouth of the harbor that this factory had to itself. I had to make my way back to the railway bridge that I had crossed on, and followed the route even further until it connected to the main rail lines, which penetrated the whole factory. I followed the tracks through the complex, many times sighting cops and security guards driving past on small roads only a chain link fence away. Strangely, they all seemed unaware of me. I went past the railway station, figuring that I’d get busted if I approached the platform from the tracks. Well past the station, I dashed across the rails to get to the road, then headed out of town for a while before realizing it was time to make my way back to Taipei. I went quickly back to the station, just in time to get the fast train back to Taipei. The only trouble was, unlike most train stations in Taiwan, this very modern one didn’t have a dinky little store attached where I could grab some Taiwan beer, so I had to make the trip back totally dry. That train trip really seemed long without a few beers to chill me out.
Henben is really close to Aohua. They are both in the same "ao", the middle of which is the border between Ilan and Hualien counties. It also had a fairly big stream running through it, which gave me some trouble. The stream was quite shallow in most places and quite spread out, into many small branches. But there always seemed to be one main channel that was just a bit intimidating, especially if you didn’t want to get cell-phone etc wet. I diddled along the beach for a while, until I got to the river area that would certainly be flooded during high water. Then, I laboriously explored it, looking for a reasonable way across. I wandered around in that riverbed for hours, getting hotter and hotter, until I came to some narrows where the stream came out of the mountains. It was steep and rocky, and the water below was fast and deep. There was no easy way across. I walked back towards the ocean, and came across an abandoned railway bridge that, judging from the trail and little ladder leading up to it, was the locals’ solution to the problem I had encountered. The rails had been ripped off so there was no threat of a train coming along. It took me across to the other side, and into Hualien County. I followed a barrier wall around the outside of a huge power plant and cement making plant that dominated the town like a castle in a small village. As I came around the corner on the other side of the river mouth, the beach resumed. There was an odd outflow from the plant, from which the water came out vertically from a massive pipe. It didn’t spurt up into the air very far, but it did gush up rather impressively. I followed that beach for a while but it soon dead-ended at a huge wall of wave protectors (massive concrete jacks) that were at the mouth of the harbor that this factory had to itself. I had to make my way back to the railway bridge that I had crossed on, and followed the route even further until it connected to the main rail lines, which penetrated the whole factory. I followed the tracks through the complex, many times sighting cops and security guards driving past on small roads only a chain link fence away. Strangely, they all seemed unaware of me. I went past the railway station, figuring that I’d get busted if I approached the platform from the tracks. Well past the station, I dashed across the rails to get to the road, then headed out of town for a while before realizing it was time to make my way back to Taipei. I went quickly back to the station, just in time to get the fast train back to Taipei. The only trouble was, unlike most train stations in Taiwan, this very modern one didn’t have a dinky little store attached where I could grab some Taiwan beer, so I had to make the trip back totally dry. That train trip really seemed long without a few beers to chill me out.
More Day 16 images
Holy rock!
Cement factory / power plant in Henben / Aohua
I definitely earned this one
Day 16 walk
Day 16: Tuesday, July 24th, Nanao to Henben. 7 hrs
This was another day of heat, in fact the hottest, sweatiest day yet. I had found on the previous trip that the beach route was blocked by periodic rocky outcroppings into the sea. So my route would begin along the road, heading south. It led inland for a bit, through more alluvial farm areas, a big touristy shop for local products. I saw lots of bicyclists on this stretch of road, many of whom would yell “Jia yo!” or “Yeehaw!” as they passed. Two of them stopped, and, slightly annoyingly, wanted to take pictures with me. After five minutes I got rid of them, but noticed a country road leading towards the ocean that had a proper sign. It was worth checking out, as a possible route to the sea or to see the sea, a necessary action for my “continuity quest”. I started up the road, which led up into the hills separating me from the ocean. It was a dirt road but in good shape, and it was obviously a farm access road, as their was a lot of cultivation and irrigation. But no one seemed to live there. It also seemed like an access route for maintenance of electrical towers. As I climbed higher in the blazing noonday sun (I’m half-mad dog and half-English) I slowly started to feel baked. When I got to the top, I was feeling the first effects of mild heat exhaustion. The land on top was drier and dustier, and there were masses of flies swarming about. I had hoping that there would be a nice sea view at the end of it, but in the end I just came to the end of the last field, then a wooded cliff with almost no view whatsoever – just a tiny bit of blue through the trees. Damn! Back I went, definitely feeling worse for wear. I took it easy, and drank loads of water. I even used my umbrella to create some shadow, which worked well, of course. I followed the main road, feeling a bit like shit. A friendly passerby in a car stopped and offered me a lift, which I declined, and some water, which I gladly accepted as my supplies were a bit low. I kept trudging along feeling a bit weak, nauseous and headachey, until, suddenly, I came around a corner and saw the ocean. Oh azure ribbon of cool comfort for the mind! I drank in its blue freshness in quiet ecstasy. Not only did it look good, but also it produced a nice cool breeze. I followed the road in joyous sight of the ocean, looking down on the shoreline below, seeing into the clear water, where huge boulders lay submerged just offshore. I noticed how some of the obstacles that blocked the beach were actually quite narrow, and could be swum around, possibly. There was also a road that wound down to the sea, which I guessed was another old section of highway. I was too tired and hot to take it. [A few weeks later, I went back with some friends and we “beach traced” our way along that coast, swimming or climbing past the outcroppings. We also explored that old road, which leads down the cliff in switchbacks, and then terminates in what must have been a truly god-awful landslide. South of the landslide about 60meters, there is a small path that leads down to the beach.] I was descending towards the next “Ao” and I saw a small temple by the roadside. It was a massive, smooth boulder, painted with Kuanyin. Over and around, but not touching it, there was a concave concrete shell, obviously designed to protect the “holy rock” from falling debris. In the shade behind this, where the locals had some chairs, tables and kettles, I slumped on a sofa. An old caretaker and someone else came around, told me to sleep if I wanted, and offered me some “Ching chao cha” literally, Ching dynasty tea, which was super cold. It is made from a wild plant, not tea, and had a strong, dark flavor, the more intense for being unsweetened. However, it was very refreshing. After a break, I moved on. I was within a few km of my destination, the train station at Aohua, and had come down to a much lower height. I found another small road to the seaside. I took it, and it led to what was obviously a small abandoned military building. From there, I saw a big tunnel leading into the mountain. The gate was open. The tunnel seemed modern, tidy and well used, with some kind of electrical control boxes on one wall. There was a dusty oily wind blowing out of it. I walked into the tunnel, which disappeared into darkness. As I got farther and farther away, I heard a muted mechanical roar that slowly got louder and louder. It seemed to be coming straight for me! Louder and louder and louder! I freaked, and ran out. When I got to the gate, I turned and looked. About 200 meters away, I saw the lights of a train going by! My tunnel was an access tunnel perpendicular to the railway tunnel. Amused, I started walking into town. I was tempted to stay the night on the beach, but as they say in Texas “my dogs were barking” that is, my feet hurt, and so I decided to call it a day. On the way home, when my train was in the tunnel, I looked for the tunnel mouth I had walked into. I saw it as a flash of bright daylight for about two blinks of time.
This was another day of heat, in fact the hottest, sweatiest day yet. I had found on the previous trip that the beach route was blocked by periodic rocky outcroppings into the sea. So my route would begin along the road, heading south. It led inland for a bit, through more alluvial farm areas, a big touristy shop for local products. I saw lots of bicyclists on this stretch of road, many of whom would yell “Jia yo!” or “Yeehaw!” as they passed. Two of them stopped, and, slightly annoyingly, wanted to take pictures with me. After five minutes I got rid of them, but noticed a country road leading towards the ocean that had a proper sign. It was worth checking out, as a possible route to the sea or to see the sea, a necessary action for my “continuity quest”. I started up the road, which led up into the hills separating me from the ocean. It was a dirt road but in good shape, and it was obviously a farm access road, as their was a lot of cultivation and irrigation. But no one seemed to live there. It also seemed like an access route for maintenance of electrical towers. As I climbed higher in the blazing noonday sun (I’m half-mad dog and half-English) I slowly started to feel baked. When I got to the top, I was feeling the first effects of mild heat exhaustion. The land on top was drier and dustier, and there were masses of flies swarming about. I had hoping that there would be a nice sea view at the end of it, but in the end I just came to the end of the last field, then a wooded cliff with almost no view whatsoever – just a tiny bit of blue through the trees. Damn! Back I went, definitely feeling worse for wear. I took it easy, and drank loads of water. I even used my umbrella to create some shadow, which worked well, of course. I followed the main road, feeling a bit like shit. A friendly passerby in a car stopped and offered me a lift, which I declined, and some water, which I gladly accepted as my supplies were a bit low. I kept trudging along feeling a bit weak, nauseous and headachey, until, suddenly, I came around a corner and saw the ocean. Oh azure ribbon of cool comfort for the mind! I drank in its blue freshness in quiet ecstasy. Not only did it look good, but also it produced a nice cool breeze. I followed the road in joyous sight of the ocean, looking down on the shoreline below, seeing into the clear water, where huge boulders lay submerged just offshore. I noticed how some of the obstacles that blocked the beach were actually quite narrow, and could be swum around, possibly. There was also a road that wound down to the sea, which I guessed was another old section of highway. I was too tired and hot to take it. [A few weeks later, I went back with some friends and we “beach traced” our way along that coast, swimming or climbing past the outcroppings. We also explored that old road, which leads down the cliff in switchbacks, and then terminates in what must have been a truly god-awful landslide. South of the landslide about 60meters, there is a small path that leads down to the beach.] I was descending towards the next “Ao” and I saw a small temple by the roadside. It was a massive, smooth boulder, painted with Kuanyin. Over and around, but not touching it, there was a concave concrete shell, obviously designed to protect the “holy rock” from falling debris. In the shade behind this, where the locals had some chairs, tables and kettles, I slumped on a sofa. An old caretaker and someone else came around, told me to sleep if I wanted, and offered me some “Ching chao cha” literally, Ching dynasty tea, which was super cold. It is made from a wild plant, not tea, and had a strong, dark flavor, the more intense for being unsweetened. However, it was very refreshing. After a break, I moved on. I was within a few km of my destination, the train station at Aohua, and had come down to a much lower height. I found another small road to the seaside. I took it, and it led to what was obviously a small abandoned military building. From there, I saw a big tunnel leading into the mountain. The gate was open. The tunnel seemed modern, tidy and well used, with some kind of electrical control boxes on one wall. There was a dusty oily wind blowing out of it. I walked into the tunnel, which disappeared into darkness. As I got farther and farther away, I heard a muted mechanical roar that slowly got louder and louder. It seemed to be coming straight for me! Louder and louder and louder! I freaked, and ran out. When I got to the gate, I turned and looked. About 200 meters away, I saw the lights of a train going by! My tunnel was an access tunnel perpendicular to the railway tunnel. Amused, I started walking into town. I was tempted to stay the night on the beach, but as they say in Texas “my dogs were barking” that is, my feet hurt, and so I decided to call it a day. On the way home, when my train was in the tunnel, I looked for the tunnel mouth I had walked into. I saw it as a flash of bright daylight for about two blinks of time.
Day 15
Day 15: Wednesday, July 4th, around Nanao. 6hrs
This day was just going to be about exploring the charming little town of Nanao. I had known from my last trip that there was no way I could both see the local coastline thoroughly and move onwards to the next train station on the same day. For one thing, there was a little hilly nature trail right next to where I had stopped last time that had coast views, and I couldn’t very well miss that. Then there was a fairly long shoreline, with a river to cross. So, on this day I thought I’d just check out Nanao. The nature trail was nice, and not too challenging, which was good because it was about 35C and humid as hell. After the two km walk in the hills, I went through some pretty farmland towards the beach. Some of the views of the mountains in the distance, contrasted with the beautiful verdant farmland around me, were stunning. I found a dirt track towards the beach, passing some Aborigine families relaxing in a cold spring swimming hole, and a duck farm. I got to the beach, which was nice, but soon found that the river would be a bitch to cross. The problem was the risk of getting my cell phone and digital camera wet. The water was just a bit too fast and deep to be sure I wouldn’t wipe out. I found one place to cross that was OK, and proceeded down the beach, but then found, 1km later, that I had crossed the minor channel and that the main channel looked like it would be much tougher! I had to backtrack almost all of the day’s coastal progress, get to a road, cross a bridge, and then cut back to the ocean. Although the river channel was no more than 5 meters wide, I had to walk about 4 km to get to the other side! This was all just to save the electronic stuff, which was of course indispensable. (That’s when the idea of having a “dry keeping” device occurred to me.) I continued along the beach just south of Nanao, which had jeep access. It was really quite lovely, with nice cliffs, interesting colors in the rock, and tumbled boulders everywhere. I went about 1km, but then had to worry about time and trains. I hastened back to the train station, though a nice farming settlement. I had sweated so much on that day that, even after drinking 4L of water throughout the day, and an additional 1.5 L of water on the way to the station, I only urinated minimally. I actually started thinking I had some kind of problem, but then after drinking more and more water, things got back to normal.
This day was just going to be about exploring the charming little town of Nanao. I had known from my last trip that there was no way I could both see the local coastline thoroughly and move onwards to the next train station on the same day. For one thing, there was a little hilly nature trail right next to where I had stopped last time that had coast views, and I couldn’t very well miss that. Then there was a fairly long shoreline, with a river to cross. So, on this day I thought I’d just check out Nanao. The nature trail was nice, and not too challenging, which was good because it was about 35C and humid as hell. After the two km walk in the hills, I went through some pretty farmland towards the beach. Some of the views of the mountains in the distance, contrasted with the beautiful verdant farmland around me, were stunning. I found a dirt track towards the beach, passing some Aborigine families relaxing in a cold spring swimming hole, and a duck farm. I got to the beach, which was nice, but soon found that the river would be a bitch to cross. The problem was the risk of getting my cell phone and digital camera wet. The water was just a bit too fast and deep to be sure I wouldn’t wipe out. I found one place to cross that was OK, and proceeded down the beach, but then found, 1km later, that I had crossed the minor channel and that the main channel looked like it would be much tougher! I had to backtrack almost all of the day’s coastal progress, get to a road, cross a bridge, and then cut back to the ocean. Although the river channel was no more than 5 meters wide, I had to walk about 4 km to get to the other side! This was all just to save the electronic stuff, which was of course indispensable. (That’s when the idea of having a “dry keeping” device occurred to me.) I continued along the beach just south of Nanao, which had jeep access. It was really quite lovely, with nice cliffs, interesting colors in the rock, and tumbled boulders everywhere. I went about 1km, but then had to worry about time and trains. I hastened back to the train station, though a nice farming settlement. I had sweated so much on that day that, even after drinking 4L of water throughout the day, and an additional 1.5 L of water on the way to the station, I only urinated minimally. I actually started thinking I had some kind of problem, but then after drinking more and more water, things got back to normal.
More Day 14 images
Normal looking guys, but who were they?
Views from on high
Do those look like bullet holes to you?
Even more Day 14 images
Looks like a bullet hole to me
The first of many abandoned on the Suao-Hualien route
Looking back at Dongao
Nanao
Day 14 walk
Day 14: Monday, July 2nd, Dongao to Nanao. 6.5hrs
This turned out to be one of the weirder days up till then. I set out fairly early, and first walked along the beach area in Dongao. It was the usual gray and gravelly Ilan beach. At the end of the beach, down the road a bit, was a small fish port, but no connection to the highway far above. So, back I went back and took the road, which climbed up through the green hills. The view was becoming more interesting and dramatic. I noticed a small waterfall on the hillside across from me, originating and disappearing in lush green forest. Soon there was a double tunnel for cars, but next to it, a small road with an open gate. I followed it, and soon surmised that it was an older version of the Suao-Hualien highway. It was still in use in some capacity, but weeds were encroaching on both sides. It went on and on, feeling a little odd to be in an isolated area that had car access. It felt vaguely dangerous. Well, as if to mock me for being paranoid, events conspired to make me even more so. A short time later, a Freeca SUV came down the road from further up the track. As it went by, I waved. About 100 meters past me, I heard the sound of a two-way radio squawking. Then, the van stopped, and started reversing towards me! About 30m away it stopped, and two guys got out, a short guy and a tall guy. There was also another guy inside the car who didn’t come out. The short guy was older and appeared to be in charge. They were dressed in casual clothes, but seemed very neat and well groomed. They approached me, and the shorter guy asked me if I could speak Chinese, and I said “only a little”. We conversed mainly in English. He asked the usual questions, “Where are you from?” etc. I asked him if they were police, but he said they were reporters. “We want to take a picture with you!” he said. They wanted to be in the picture too! It seemed strange, as then they obviously couldn’t print it. What was the use of it? Then the younger guy stood next to me for the picture. Then, they let me take a picture of them and their car. Then, thank you’s and bye-bye’s, and off they went. It all seemed very strange. I had seen a TV news crew in the area that morning, filming some harbour, but why would they stop and ask to be photographed with me on an isolated country road? It made me feel a bit vulnerable. Alice, you’re not in Tianmu any more! Anyway, I tromped on, along the road, and eventually came to a junction. To the right, the road became a proper mountain road leading up the hill, with mirrors at sharp turns, distance markers, and a yellow stripe in the middle. Ahead was a short, gated tunnel with a low gate that was easy to climb over. There was a path to the left of the tunnel. I tried the path, but it was overgrown with tall weeds, so I turned back. I went through the tunnel, and at the end of it found an older highway sign, apparently full of bullet holes! I had seen some kind of Aboriginal Police vehicle on the road earlier, so probably this was an Aboriginal area, and maybe some of the local bravos liked to take shots with their hunting rifles at the sign sometimes!
I walked along the old road, really hoping it would connect to the highway again. It was a pleasant environment, with lovely trees and ferns, and occasional peeks at the stunning coastline. Then, without warning, about 20 meters in front of me, the top of a tree on the cliff side of the road just exploded, and the pieces and what must have been a rock boomed down the side of the cliff. I had heard no noise, from what I assume was a falling rock, above the trail coming down. Hence, I assume that it was a rock that had bounced very high above me, come down at a steep angle silently and at high speed, and then smashed into the top of a tree. After this I was feeling a bit spooked, but I kept going on, until the track just ended in a mound of dirt. I marched back, and went a few clicks up the mountain road, but it just went up and up, and nowhere on my route, so I went all the way back to the starting point off the main highway, by the twin tunnels.
. I followed the road without adventure until I came to Nanao. It was a big area, a cultivated and inhabited area of about 40 sq km, obviously an alluvial fan created by mountain runoff carried by the small river that went through the town. It was a fertile and cheerful looking place. There was a turn-off for a fish port, so I took that small road, through green fields of pineapple and other crops. I went through the fishing village, and it seemed to be a very sleepy backwater indeed. I came to some kind of irrigation canal that had lovely clean cool water running in it, which I later learned was a cold spring. Some local teenagers were bathing in it. Then, there was a harbor, with a fine view. And, most importantly, a little shop that sold water and cold beer! Ahhh!
This turned out to be one of the weirder days up till then. I set out fairly early, and first walked along the beach area in Dongao. It was the usual gray and gravelly Ilan beach. At the end of the beach, down the road a bit, was a small fish port, but no connection to the highway far above. So, back I went back and took the road, which climbed up through the green hills. The view was becoming more interesting and dramatic. I noticed a small waterfall on the hillside across from me, originating and disappearing in lush green forest. Soon there was a double tunnel for cars, but next to it, a small road with an open gate. I followed it, and soon surmised that it was an older version of the Suao-Hualien highway. It was still in use in some capacity, but weeds were encroaching on both sides. It went on and on, feeling a little odd to be in an isolated area that had car access. It felt vaguely dangerous. Well, as if to mock me for being paranoid, events conspired to make me even more so. A short time later, a Freeca SUV came down the road from further up the track. As it went by, I waved. About 100 meters past me, I heard the sound of a two-way radio squawking. Then, the van stopped, and started reversing towards me! About 30m away it stopped, and two guys got out, a short guy and a tall guy. There was also another guy inside the car who didn’t come out. The short guy was older and appeared to be in charge. They were dressed in casual clothes, but seemed very neat and well groomed. They approached me, and the shorter guy asked me if I could speak Chinese, and I said “only a little”. We conversed mainly in English. He asked the usual questions, “Where are you from?” etc. I asked him if they were police, but he said they were reporters. “We want to take a picture with you!” he said. They wanted to be in the picture too! It seemed strange, as then they obviously couldn’t print it. What was the use of it? Then the younger guy stood next to me for the picture. Then, they let me take a picture of them and their car. Then, thank you’s and bye-bye’s, and off they went. It all seemed very strange. I had seen a TV news crew in the area that morning, filming some harbour, but why would they stop and ask to be photographed with me on an isolated country road? It made me feel a bit vulnerable. Alice, you’re not in Tianmu any more! Anyway, I tromped on, along the road, and eventually came to a junction. To the right, the road became a proper mountain road leading up the hill, with mirrors at sharp turns, distance markers, and a yellow stripe in the middle. Ahead was a short, gated tunnel with a low gate that was easy to climb over. There was a path to the left of the tunnel. I tried the path, but it was overgrown with tall weeds, so I turned back. I went through the tunnel, and at the end of it found an older highway sign, apparently full of bullet holes! I had seen some kind of Aboriginal Police vehicle on the road earlier, so probably this was an Aboriginal area, and maybe some of the local bravos liked to take shots with their hunting rifles at the sign sometimes!
I walked along the old road, really hoping it would connect to the highway again. It was a pleasant environment, with lovely trees and ferns, and occasional peeks at the stunning coastline. Then, without warning, about 20 meters in front of me, the top of a tree on the cliff side of the road just exploded, and the pieces and what must have been a rock boomed down the side of the cliff. I had heard no noise, from what I assume was a falling rock, above the trail coming down. Hence, I assume that it was a rock that had bounced very high above me, come down at a steep angle silently and at high speed, and then smashed into the top of a tree. After this I was feeling a bit spooked, but I kept going on, until the track just ended in a mound of dirt. I marched back, and went a few clicks up the mountain road, but it just went up and up, and nowhere on my route, so I went all the way back to the starting point off the main highway, by the twin tunnels.
. I followed the road without adventure until I came to Nanao. It was a big area, a cultivated and inhabited area of about 40 sq km, obviously an alluvial fan created by mountain runoff carried by the small river that went through the town. It was a fertile and cheerful looking place. There was a turn-off for a fish port, so I took that small road, through green fields of pineapple and other crops. I went through the fishing village, and it seemed to be a very sleepy backwater indeed. I came to some kind of irrigation canal that had lovely clean cool water running in it, which I later learned was a cold spring. Some local teenagers were bathing in it. Then, there was a harbor, with a fine view. And, most importantly, a little shop that sold water and cold beer! Ahhh!
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