Near Aodi
Monument to resistance against Japan
4th Nuclear Power Plant, under construction
Showing posts with label Keelung to Fulong. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Keelung to Fulong. Show all posts
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Day 9 images
Near Aodi
Day 9 walk
Day 9. Mon, Feb 5th. Aodi to Shihcheng. 6 hrs.This was the first of my days walking while on the pre-fasting diet of strictly fruit and vegetables. I noticed very little difference in performance, although I seemed to feel like I had less energy. I think low and steady output activities like flat walking are not really affected by this diet. I set off from Aodi on a very sunny day. The beginning bit, getting out of town, was a bit weird, as there was no apparent clear route. So, I putzed around for a bit, then got back to the road. Now I could see where all those trucks had been going: I was walking right by the construction site of Taiwan’s 4th nuclear power station. At this point, it was just a grid of girders framed by huge angled cranes. Across from it was a traditional style building, which seemed to be the access point to a beach park. I paid my 60NT, and went through. Inside there was an interesting monument; a cenotaph dedicated to those brave few who fought against the Japanese occupation of Taiwan in 1895. Actually, Taiwan was ceded to Japan by the Treaty of Shimonosheki after the 1894-1895 war, but many of the locals weren’t too happy about that. Below the monument was a lovely beach. It was golden sand, with a few little streams and rocky bits to give contrast. It was really a beautiful day, with a slight breeze and almost cloudless sky. I made my way happily down the beach to the adjacent, Fulong, beach. Between Yanliao and Fulong beach was a seldom-used part (except for fishermen) that was a bit garbeachy. At Fulong, there was nice view of the mountain across the bay, and a prominent ocean-side temple. I crossed the bridge over a small but deep river, and walked along the shore to the temple, splashing through a small stream on the way. The temple was beautiful, and filled with dragon sculptures. Along the coast further: I checked out the bus stops, and was slightly dismayed. Up to then, starting from Tanshui, there were always frequent intercity buses with well-marked stops very 500m or so. When I was done for the day, all I had to do was stop. Since Keelung, I had been using the Fulong to Keelung bus route, as the only other posted one, from Luodong to Taipei, seemed to be very infrequent, despite the promising-looking schedule on the sign. Now, after Fulong, there was no apparent regular middle-distance replacement bus. The danger was that I could get stranded on the road with no safe way home. Around this peninsula, the main east coast rail line met the coast, so if I could only make it to the first station, I’d be OK. Hmmm. I decided to go for it. I knew the peninsula walk would be a bit long, so I started to make time. I hoofed it along, enjoying the now-familiar view of mountain and ocean. To my right was Lingjou Mountain, to the left the sea. There were a few coves. One was in a place called Fulian, which was a small, traditional fishing village. It was clean and cheerful, and had preserved some old buildings well, near a wide easy walkway near the seawall. Next, I passed by the ***** rocks, which was overlooked by a big “God’s golf ball” radar array and the San Diego (?!) lighthouse, which was perched so high up on the surrounding hills that it could only be seen, and at that, partially, from a few angles. This is the most easterly spot on the island of Taiwan. The ocean rocks were OK, and as I passed through the fishing village I noticed what looked like an artist’s home and studio, with whimsical works of sculpture outside. Around the bend in the darkening evening: then, my first view on this trip of Turtle Island, which is much larger than Keelung Island. It is also further away from the mainland. In the sun-shadow of the eastward mountains, around 5pm, I passed the Lailai rocks, which compose, according to the sign, the largest wave-cut platform in Taiwan. Then, as it got darker and darker, I walked past sleepy, poor-looking villages with people having cookouts on the beach, and noisy dogs barking at me. Then, full darkness. Trucks zooming buy, with dusty gusts of wind behind. Headlights! The occasional scooter passed by, or nervous dog trotting along the shoulder, surprised at my presence. Then, a sign in the dark: Toucheng Township. I had made it to Ilan county. A few klicks down the road was Shicheng, a one-horse fishing village with a tiny train station. I waited at a promising looking bus stop, but a local woman on a scooter told me the train was better. An hour later, I was on the local. It stopped at every stop on the way to Taipei. An excellent way to increase one’s geographical knowledge!
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Day 8 images
Day 8 begins: Left: Noel, Right: me
Looking north towards Keelung Mountain from Bitoujiao
Day 8 walk
Day 8. Fri, Feb 2nd. Bitoujiao to Aodi. 5 hrs.
This hike was with Noel, ny friend from Oz. We got the bus from Keelung, after a bit of a wait at the bus stop, but fortunately we had a good chat. Started from Bitoujiao, on a windy day. The waves were really smashing up on the rocks. We checked out Bitoujiao for a while, and hiked onto the hill and cliff trails, which had lovely views. We passed by a coastguard radar station, a small lighthouse, and then along the beach rocks to the Longdong side. Along the coast, around the bay, and to the rocky part of Longdung, famous for its climbing. There was some slight confusion about the trail, so we set off around the rocky beach, thinking this was the main trail. We were soon more or less bouldering, as the trail got more and more hypothetical and the landscape more vertical. At one point, it seemed like we needed to get a bit technical to actually make it. We crossed a dodgy transition from one rock to another, only to discover that the way ahead was getting even more technical, and was even roped. There were two horizontal cracks in a sheer wall, one for feet and one for hands, with the hands crack being roped. I thought that was a bit much, for a long distance hiking trip with no guide, ropes, or knowledge of the trail ahead, so we opted to go back. Oops! Getting across the dodgy bit was much dodgier on the return! We would have to do it, for the beginning bit, backwards, so we couldn’t see what we were doing. Below was a 4-metre drop to shallow, rocky water. Probably a survivable fall or jump, but very easy to break a leg, or even something else… What to do? I started to go back, as Noel looked on. “Christ!” he said, with a look of extreme worry. “Noel! Don’t say that!” I chickened out. Hmmm… Then, we found another way, over a side boulder that was challenging but much simpler and safer. Ahhh!! Relief. We went back to the parking lot and found the correct trail, gaining, at the top, some excellent views of the cliffs. After following this path, we followed various beach tracks, and at times the road, until we arrived in Aodi. I remembered a good restaurant in Aodi, (Hsingang Seafood) which we were able to find, and were soon enjoying a delicious seafood meal. Ahhh! A fine end to an interesting day.
This hike was with Noel, ny friend from Oz. We got the bus from Keelung, after a bit of a wait at the bus stop, but fortunately we had a good chat. Started from Bitoujiao, on a windy day. The waves were really smashing up on the rocks. We checked out Bitoujiao for a while, and hiked onto the hill and cliff trails, which had lovely views. We passed by a coastguard radar station, a small lighthouse, and then along the beach rocks to the Longdong side. Along the coast, around the bay, and to the rocky part of Longdung, famous for its climbing. There was some slight confusion about the trail, so we set off around the rocky beach, thinking this was the main trail. We were soon more or less bouldering, as the trail got more and more hypothetical and the landscape more vertical. At one point, it seemed like we needed to get a bit technical to actually make it. We crossed a dodgy transition from one rock to another, only to discover that the way ahead was getting even more technical, and was even roped. There were two horizontal cracks in a sheer wall, one for feet and one for hands, with the hands crack being roped. I thought that was a bit much, for a long distance hiking trip with no guide, ropes, or knowledge of the trail ahead, so we opted to go back. Oops! Getting across the dodgy bit was much dodgier on the return! We would have to do it, for the beginning bit, backwards, so we couldn’t see what we were doing. Below was a 4-metre drop to shallow, rocky water. Probably a survivable fall or jump, but very easy to break a leg, or even something else… What to do? I started to go back, as Noel looked on. “Christ!” he said, with a look of extreme worry. “Noel! Don’t say that!” I chickened out. Hmmm… Then, we found another way, over a side boulder that was challenging but much simpler and safer. Ahhh!! Relief. We went back to the parking lot and found the correct trail, gaining, at the top, some excellent views of the cliffs. After following this path, we followed various beach tracks, and at times the road, until we arrived in Aodi. I remembered a good restaurant in Aodi, (Hsingang Seafood) which we were able to find, and were soon enjoying a delicious seafood meal. Ahhh! A fine end to an interesting day.
Day 7 walk
Day 7: Wed, Jan 31. Shenao to Bitoujiao. 4 hrs.
I had a bit of a rough time getting the right bus to my starting point. I had eyeballed a promising looking bus stop on the way back on day 6, but none of the busses that stopped were going the right way. Finally, I took one that I thought might be going the right way, but after being on it for five minutes it clearly was not. I had to get off, and take a taxi to the coast road, then wait a good 30 minutes for the right bus. But, eventually it came, and I got to my starting place about 1.30pm. Starting at Shenao was not terribly impressive, although there were some nice views of Keelung Mountain. The road at this point was usually the only reasonable option and it was obviously a busy truck route: and not small trucks either, but really big flatbeds and container trailers that zoomed along, often verging onto the shoulder. I passed a big oil storage facility, probably for the power plant, and then the road started hugging the NE side of Keelung Mountain, where it sloped down to the sea. The view of the sea was nice, but hardly a novelty at this point. The first point of interest was the outflow point for the massive drain the Taiwanese government has built to avoid flooding at Shijhih and other points along the Keelung River during typhoons. The drain goes from the Keelung River in the mountains not far from Keelung itself, and diverts a portion of the river underground to the ocean. The outflow point is big, but not huge. The next point of interest was the old Lile copper smelting facility at Chinkuashih, which really is a fascinating sight. The first interesting thing I noticed is the bay, which was discolored with a strong brown tint, which I could see from kilometers away. This tint got redder as I got closer. This strange area of water, with the brightly-tinted water contrasting with the dark blue of the Pacific, is often called the "Yinyang Sea". As I turned the corner into the bay, I saw strangely shaped mountaintops forming a near horizon, their tops twisted and deformed. There was a clear south view of Keelung Mountain, which I’d just come around; and on the slope leading down from the strange peaks to the reddish-brown bay was a huge old mine building. The building was seemingly covered in a thin layer of moss, so it was almost exactly the same gray-green color of the hillside. The land around was barren. The entire effect was quite striking, and had a slightly dream-like feeling. Onwards, after the bay, the twisting road became sandwiched between rocky cliffs and the stony seashore. From time to time, there were concrete shelters over the road, to protect it from falling rocks from the cliffs above. These were similar to avalanche shelters I’d seen in alpine areas of Canada. There were a few small parks and fish ports along this rugged route, ending in a very pretty one, Bitou Jiao, or “Nosehead Cape.” This is a quaint harbor, with a big hill protecting it from the ocean on one side. I climbed up the hill, then down to the shore, which was a wave-cut platform of exposed rock next to the sea. A sign said that this was some of the hardest limestone in Taiwan. I enjoyed walking along the simple fisherman’s trail along the platform, visible only because it was scuffed a bit whiter than the surrounding rock. Then, as always a long wait and return bus journey home.
I had a bit of a rough time getting the right bus to my starting point. I had eyeballed a promising looking bus stop on the way back on day 6, but none of the busses that stopped were going the right way. Finally, I took one that I thought might be going the right way, but after being on it for five minutes it clearly was not. I had to get off, and take a taxi to the coast road, then wait a good 30 minutes for the right bus. But, eventually it came, and I got to my starting place about 1.30pm. Starting at Shenao was not terribly impressive, although there were some nice views of Keelung Mountain. The road at this point was usually the only reasonable option and it was obviously a busy truck route: and not small trucks either, but really big flatbeds and container trailers that zoomed along, often verging onto the shoulder. I passed a big oil storage facility, probably for the power plant, and then the road started hugging the NE side of Keelung Mountain, where it sloped down to the sea. The view of the sea was nice, but hardly a novelty at this point. The first point of interest was the outflow point for the massive drain the Taiwanese government has built to avoid flooding at Shijhih and other points along the Keelung River during typhoons. The drain goes from the Keelung River in the mountains not far from Keelung itself, and diverts a portion of the river underground to the ocean. The outflow point is big, but not huge. The next point of interest was the old Lile copper smelting facility at Chinkuashih, which really is a fascinating sight. The first interesting thing I noticed is the bay, which was discolored with a strong brown tint, which I could see from kilometers away. This tint got redder as I got closer. This strange area of water, with the brightly-tinted water contrasting with the dark blue of the Pacific, is often called the "Yinyang Sea". As I turned the corner into the bay, I saw strangely shaped mountaintops forming a near horizon, their tops twisted and deformed. There was a clear south view of Keelung Mountain, which I’d just come around; and on the slope leading down from the strange peaks to the reddish-brown bay was a huge old mine building. The building was seemingly covered in a thin layer of moss, so it was almost exactly the same gray-green color of the hillside. The land around was barren. The entire effect was quite striking, and had a slightly dream-like feeling. Onwards, after the bay, the twisting road became sandwiched between rocky cliffs and the stony seashore. From time to time, there were concrete shelters over the road, to protect it from falling rocks from the cliffs above. These were similar to avalanche shelters I’d seen in alpine areas of Canada. There were a few small parks and fish ports along this rugged route, ending in a very pretty one, Bitou Jiao, or “Nosehead Cape.” This is a quaint harbor, with a big hill protecting it from the ocean on one side. I climbed up the hill, then down to the shore, which was a wave-cut platform of exposed rock next to the sea. A sign said that this was some of the hardest limestone in Taiwan. I enjoyed walking along the simple fisherman’s trail along the platform, visible only because it was scuffed a bit whiter than the surrounding rock. Then, as always a long wait and return bus journey home.
Monday, May 5, 2008
Day 6 walk
Day 6: Tue, Jan 30th. Keelung to Shenao. 5.5 hrs.
I started off alone at Keelung at about noon. It was a fine sunny day, not too cold or hot. I walked along the eastern side of the harbor, and after passing by naval ships, came again to container terminals. These gave way to fishing villages, and lesser harbors; often full of older ships being repaired, or at least badly in need of it! Then, I went over a small bridge to Heping Island. This is a smallish island on the edge of town, just before the National Taiwan Maritime University. About one third of the island is residential, another third is a big shipbuilding facility, and the last third is a big recreational park. Just over the bridge to the right as you go to the island there is an area of seafood restaurants. Beyond that, there is a small Taiwan Aboriginal village, which is quite poor and squalid looking.
I wandered through the main residential area on the left, which is a normal, bustling blue-collar neighborhood, passed the shipbuilding facility, until I got to the park, which turned out to be very nice. There was a great view of the mouth of Keelung harbour, and the seacoast north of Keelung; I could also see Keelung Island, with its high white cliffs and green scrub, standing out in contrast to the blue sea. The rock park had many unusual rock formations: smooth, tan-colored, twisted shapes, with knobs and blisters of other kinds of rocks poking though. There were bizarre and silly shapes, like shit from a Dr. Seuss world, or fossilized aliens. There were also some narrow channels right by the sea, where waves would rush in at great speed, creating powerful surges that would penetrate narrow crevices under your feet, making strange noises. After being mesmerized in this zone for a while, I followed the trail by the sea, past green algae-coated rocks, until I’d come around to the south side of the island. I was returning to the area near the bridge. I went past the seafood restaurants, skirting the channel separating Heping Island from the mainland, then went back across the bridge. Then, I wandered about in an area of apartment blocks, trying to find the best way onward. Suddenly, I heard a boy ask me “Hello! How are you?” I looked around but couldn’t see anybody. Finally, I spotted two grinning and giggling boys on a high rooftop above me!
By process of elimination, I found that seaside progress was not a good option, so I found a road past the Formosan Aboriginal Hall. There were some paintings on a wall outside, an outside dance or assembly area, and an inside stage. Then, the road came to a tunnel, which curved into the hill. But, on the other side of the tunnel was…a twisting maze of small alleys that had so many clothes hanging out to dry and household items in them that I almost felt like I was walking through someone’s house! The alleys eventually led to a small street, which led directly to the main highway, which was again close to the sea.
The first thing along this road was the Taiwan National Maritime University, a nicely located campus. After this was Bisha fish port. This is a big port, and definitely a tourist place. Inside there is a wonderful abundance and variety of fresh seafood, all at high prices. Tthe other side of the main building has seafood restaurants. There’s a sense of money-grubbing in the air, but probably the vendors have to pay high rent) to get a space. I settled for some small steamed squid and a big bottle of Taiwan Gold Medal beer. Ahhh!
Then, I kept going, away from the touristy part and into the local part. I went through the village, and went along the far side of the harbour, to the end where there was a path up onto a nice big hill. The lookout point up halfway up the hill offered a great view in all directions. To the south, there were some cliffs: one path went up along the top of them, while another went down to the shore. I followed this one down, and along some rocky beaches to a storm-proofed seawall, with massive concrete jacks lying at its base. Around the corner was a wonderful view of Keelung Mountain and Jiufen. In fact, I had arrived at the home of a friend, although she was out, where we’d all had a great barbecue a few months back. The name of the place is “Badouzu”. I kept going down the road, as the day slowly faded, and a few kilometers down, came to a big thermal power station in a small town called Shenao. And there I stopped.
I started off alone at Keelung at about noon. It was a fine sunny day, not too cold or hot. I walked along the eastern side of the harbor, and after passing by naval ships, came again to container terminals. These gave way to fishing villages, and lesser harbors; often full of older ships being repaired, or at least badly in need of it! Then, I went over a small bridge to Heping Island. This is a smallish island on the edge of town, just before the National Taiwan Maritime University. About one third of the island is residential, another third is a big shipbuilding facility, and the last third is a big recreational park. Just over the bridge to the right as you go to the island there is an area of seafood restaurants. Beyond that, there is a small Taiwan Aboriginal village, which is quite poor and squalid looking.
I wandered through the main residential area on the left, which is a normal, bustling blue-collar neighborhood, passed the shipbuilding facility, until I got to the park, which turned out to be very nice. There was a great view of the mouth of Keelung harbour, and the seacoast north of Keelung; I could also see Keelung Island, with its high white cliffs and green scrub, standing out in contrast to the blue sea. The rock park had many unusual rock formations: smooth, tan-colored, twisted shapes, with knobs and blisters of other kinds of rocks poking though. There were bizarre and silly shapes, like shit from a Dr. Seuss world, or fossilized aliens. There were also some narrow channels right by the sea, where waves would rush in at great speed, creating powerful surges that would penetrate narrow crevices under your feet, making strange noises. After being mesmerized in this zone for a while, I followed the trail by the sea, past green algae-coated rocks, until I’d come around to the south side of the island. I was returning to the area near the bridge. I went past the seafood restaurants, skirting the channel separating Heping Island from the mainland, then went back across the bridge. Then, I wandered about in an area of apartment blocks, trying to find the best way onward. Suddenly, I heard a boy ask me “Hello! How are you?” I looked around but couldn’t see anybody. Finally, I spotted two grinning and giggling boys on a high rooftop above me!
By process of elimination, I found that seaside progress was not a good option, so I found a road past the Formosan Aboriginal Hall. There were some paintings on a wall outside, an outside dance or assembly area, and an inside stage. Then, the road came to a tunnel, which curved into the hill. But, on the other side of the tunnel was…a twisting maze of small alleys that had so many clothes hanging out to dry and household items in them that I almost felt like I was walking through someone’s house! The alleys eventually led to a small street, which led directly to the main highway, which was again close to the sea.
The first thing along this road was the Taiwan National Maritime University, a nicely located campus. After this was Bisha fish port. This is a big port, and definitely a tourist place. Inside there is a wonderful abundance and variety of fresh seafood, all at high prices. Tthe other side of the main building has seafood restaurants. There’s a sense of money-grubbing in the air, but probably the vendors have to pay high rent) to get a space. I settled for some small steamed squid and a big bottle of Taiwan Gold Medal beer. Ahhh!
Then, I kept going, away from the touristy part and into the local part. I went through the village, and went along the far side of the harbour, to the end where there was a path up onto a nice big hill. The lookout point up halfway up the hill offered a great view in all directions. To the south, there were some cliffs: one path went up along the top of them, while another went down to the shore. I followed this one down, and along some rocky beaches to a storm-proofed seawall, with massive concrete jacks lying at its base. Around the corner was a wonderful view of Keelung Mountain and Jiufen. In fact, I had arrived at the home of a friend, although she was out, where we’d all had a great barbecue a few months back. The name of the place is “Badouzu”. I kept going down the road, as the day slowly faded, and a few kilometers down, came to a big thermal power station in a small town called Shenao. And there I stopped.
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